Tuesday, January 12, 2016

Valerii Danevych’s latest wooden tourbillon

Valerii Danevych's latest wooden tourbillon

Valerii Danevych, who caught our attention last year with a watch carved almost entirely out of wood, returned to Baselworld this year with yet another wooden tourbillon.


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The professional woodworker spent 1,800 hours over a period of seven months creating this watch. Its movement is comprised of 154 parts made from eight types of wood, and the whole thing weighs in at just 32 grams. 

Konstantin Chaykin’s Cinema watch

Konstantin Chaykin's Cinema watch
Independent Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin payed homage to 19th century photographer Eadweard Muybridge with his Cinema watch.http://www.watchesyo.co/ Muybridge famously used his zoopraxiscope, an early type of
projector, to prove that galloping horses lose all contact with the ground during each stride.

The watch features an animation (viewed through an aperture at 6 o’clock) recreating Muybridge’s galloping horse image. The animaiton is achieved by a disc engraved with 12 frames of the galloping horse, which spins when triggered by a pusher at 9 o’clock. 

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Baume & Mercier Clifton Collection

Baume & Mercier Clifton Chronograph

Le premier modèle de chronographe dans les années 1950 d'inspiration collection Clifton (qui jusqu'à présent a inclus seulement un modèle trois aiguilles avec petites secondes et un modèle de «Calendrier complet» avec phase de lune) possède un boîtier de 43 mm et une mécanique à remontage automatique le mouvement de molette ETA.http://www.repliquesuisse.co/ The dispose d'une finition satinée soleil et soit acier bleui ou mains d'or. Les chiffres et indices arabes sont soit argenté ou doré.

Le mouvement, l'ETA a tenté-et-vrai calibre chronographe 7750, est visible à travers le fond; Baume & Mercier a personnalisé le rotor avec des escargots et décor Côtes de Genève. Les ponts ont également côtes de Genève ainsi que d'un motif de perlage.

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Monday, December 28, 2015

New Roger Dubuis Excalibur Skeleton Watches

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic Skeleton

While Roger Dubuis has become well-regarded in recent years as a pioneer in skeletonized watch movements — its approach is to design them in an openworked style from the ground up, rather than the typical method of skeletonizing an existing movement — the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic Skeleton represents a first for the brand in this area,http://www.owatcheso.co/replica-iwc as its first automatic skeleton movement with a micro-rotor.

From a technical standpoint, skeletonizing a micro-rotor would seem counter-intuitive, since the use of such a rotor serves the same purpose as skeletonized movement parts, i.e., weight reduction. However, Roger Dubuis embraced the paradox, going so far as to use skeletonization on the micro-rotor itself.

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The movement also incorporated the off-centered “star” motif of other Roger Dubuis skeleton movements and carries a power reserve of 60 hours. The 42-mm rose gold case is water-resistant to 30 meters and is secured (via the triple lugs  typical of the Excalibur collection) to a brown alligator strap with rose-gold folding clasp.

Private Label montres de plongée

Squale Dive Watch Family

Un des plus célèbres exemples de l'étiquetage privé début nous vient de la marque horlogère Jenny, en particulier le modèle des Caraïbes (réf. 701, ci-dessus), avec son caractère distinctif cas monocoque,http://www.watchesgoing.co/ lancé entre 1963 et 1964 comme l'un des premiers 1000 mètres les montres de plongée.

Et en parlant de Jaquet Droz, l'ancienne coopérative (maintenant une marque de luxe sous le Swatch Group) était un fournisseur essentiel des modèles de base à cette époque pour l'ensemble de l'industrie: par exemple, en 1966, une écrasante 9.000 de ses différents modèles ont été proposés à le salon horloger de Bâle, certains d'entre eux montres de plongée qui est devenu bien connu sous différents noms de marque au fil des ans.

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Ainsi, alors que je préfère personnellement les montres de plongée qui sont exclusifs à une marque, l'idée de l'étiquetage privé - même si cela signifie souvent une montre fabriquée en Chine ces jours plutôt que dans la Suisse (qui, ironiquement, a été une fois elle-même choisie par les goûts de fondateur de la CBI Florentine Ariosto Jones pour ses prestations de production à faible coût) - est au moins aussi vieux que le premier 1000 mètres montre de plongée.

Sunday, December 27, 2015

Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech

Panerai Carbotech - front
The new Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 (Ref. PAM00616) are made of carbotech, a composite material based on carbon fiber, used here for the very first time in watchmaking. The material has an uneven, matte black appearance with (to my eyes) an almost wood-grain-like texture, which varies according the cutting of the material.

The carbon fibers used are very long, to ensure aesthetic uniformity, and the sheets are superimposed and pressed together in such a way that the fibers of each layer are set at a different angle to the ones above and below it. The resulting material boasts mechanical properties much higher than those of similar materials used in watchmaking, such as ceramics and titanium. Carbotech, according to Panerai, is lighter than both and more resistant to corrosion as well as being hypoallergenic.

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The black dial of the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech has applied hour markers, a date window at 3 o’clock, and a small-seconds subdial, marked by detailing in “Panerai blue,” at 9 o’clock. The screw-down caseback, which helps to ensure the watch’s high level of water-resistance, is in black-treated titanium and engraved with characteristic Panerai elements, including an illustration of the slow-speed torpedo (nicknamed the “pig”) on which Panerai watch-equipped Italian Navy commandos rode during their seagoing missions in the 1940s.

The Arnold & Son Instrument Collection

Arnold-and-Son-Instrument-Collection-Golden-Wheel-2

The Golden Wheel combines the first-ever wandering hours function with the true beat seconds complication. Once again, Arnold & Son provides a highly complicated display with a legible and elegant visual interpretation. The manufacture movement was three years in the making from concept to development.

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The wandering hours function, also known as a jumping digital hours indication, occupies the top arc of the watch dial (from 10 o’clock to 2 o’clock). It is composed of 3 sapphire discs that rotate first on a central axis and then on their own axes. The hour numeral is used as a pointer for the minutes when running on the top arc. At the top, Arnold & Son fills the time-carousel of the Golden Wheel with a true beat seconds hand from the central axis – adding visual complexity and elegant motion.

The central time- carousel is crafted in solid 18-carat red gold – giving its name to the watch. The top arc on which the hours are running is made of mother of pearl. Beneath the technical elements sit the main plate of the movement, a grey coated dial finished with straight Geneva stripes.