Tuesday, January 31, 2017

MB&F Balthazar Robot Clock, Amazing Design

Thankfully, the Swiss watchmaker isn’t in the business of bringing us another step closer to a Skynet takeover, and is instead expanding its range of highly posable desk and tabletop clocks with the MB&F Balthazar – a steely, horological cyborg with split personalities whose inner workings reveal the same clever time-telling means that have routinely made the brand a fun one to watch.
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To pull off the MB&F Balthazar’s ambitious design and sophisticated construction from over 600 micro-engineered components, MB&F again enlisted the assistance of clockmaker L’Epée; a highly specialized manufacture with nearly two centuries of experience making music boxes, clocks, and watch components near the Swiss-France border. The movement inside the MB&F Balthazar is in-house designed and manufactured by L’Epée. Beyond the challenge of the clock's construction itself is the polishing, blasting, and satin finishing of each component, whose larger surface area yields a much greater challenge for watchmakers trained in traditional Geneva finishing.

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Tuesday, January 17, 2017

Marathon CSAR, Medium Diver, & USMC Navigator Watch

As part of our sponsorship, we took three popular Marathon watches and put them to the test during our training season and eventual 215km ride. Those three watches were the Marathon Pilot's Chronograph CSAR, the Marathon Medium Diver Automatic, and the Marathon USMC Navigator Quartz, and we definitely put them through the paces.
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Marathon CSAR, Medium Diver, & USMC Navigator Watches Team Review Wrist Time Reviews
It was cold enough that a few of our training rides were snowed out completely, and here is where we started to realize a place for Marathon Watches in the world of inclement athletics. Anyone who cycles or runs is probably familiar with apps like Strava that time and track your outings. I had been using this app on my phone, which was tucked close to my body and protected by multiple layers of winter riding gear. My Marathon CSAR was worn on the outside of my gear so I could time my 50km pre-planned route, and I trusted my Strava app to calculate my average speed. Well, at the 25km halfway point, I realized my phone was dead. Not because I forgot to charge it, but it was too cold to maintain power. The CSAR? Alive and well. And, since I knew I was at the 25km mark, I could easily use the time captured by the chronograph to calculate my average speed (around 21.5km/hr).

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Grieb & Benzinger Blue Merit Watch With Tourbillon

The tourbillon-based mechanism also features a fusee and chain transmission system along with a power reserve indicator on the dial. This layout helped A. Lange & Söhne develop a distinctive look as an early promoter of the tourbillon, and remains utterly classy and classic.  Inside the Blue Merit is a movement produced by A. Lange & Söhne which has been taken out of its original Lange case and thoroughly modified. It is the caliber L902.0 which, despite having come out in the late 1990s, is still super cool today.
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A. Lange & Söhne produced just 50 pieces of the Tourbillon Pour le Merite, stopping in 1998, and the piece came in a 38.5mm-wide platinum case. I doubt collectors who own a Tourbillon Pour le Merite today are utterly bored with their timepiece, but at least one person (perhaps it was someone at Grieb & Benzinger) decided one of these limited edition A. Lange & Söhne tourbillon watches should be sacrificed in the name of horological art. I really do want to meet these people who have the balls to choose $100,000-plus (when they were new back in the '90s) items as the base for a "project watch."

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TAG Heuer Mikrograph 100th Anniversary Chronograph Watch

With TAG pushing to expand their market with cheaper tourbillons and democratically elected Autavias, it's exciting to see them revisit the exceedingly complex and rather special Mikrograph platform.  The Mikrograph, as an idea, is characterized by its history as the first stopwatch that offered 1/100th of a second resolution. The 2016 Mikrograph 100th Anniversary sports a bullhead layout (with the crown and pushers placed at 12 o'clock) and a unique two-section case that allows the inner case to be detached from the strap and lugs. here we could see this replica TAG Heuer Mikrograph 100th Anniversary Chronograph Watch .
 
The dial design is inspired by the 1916 Mikrograph stopwatch and offers strong legibility with black markings and long blued hands. The chronograph functionality measures a maximum of 30 minutes, with a minute counter at 12, a seconds counter at 3, and the 1/100th scale surrounding the outer edge of the dial, read from the long central 1/100th seconds hand. Along with a standard hour and minute hand, we also find a power reserve indication at 9 and a date display at 4:30. As a further nod to the 1916 stopwatch, the 2016 TAG Heuer Mikrograph 100th Anniversary has a large onion crown at 12, which I assume will be a treat to use when topping up the power reserve.

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Sunday, January 8, 2017

1969 Apollo 11 Moon Mission Created by Bovarro

Now, the Moon 1969 watch, a Bovarro Swiss-made automatic timepiece, is on Kickstarter to celebrate that achievement. Designed to resemble the hatch and knob on the Apollo 11 spacecraft, bezels and all, this is a watch that is both unique and functional. Initially, the duo created the bezel to look exactly like the Apollo 11 hatch with the 42 screws, but the look of the watch did not quite come out as they had expected. To make the watch more attractive, the brothers had to tweak the appearance a little and at the same time try to maintain the aesthetics. 
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The easy-to-read black dial of the Bovarro Lunar Series boasts luminescent hour dots at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions, a luminescent moon at 6 o'clock, and date window at 3 o'clock. Bovarro Orbit and Celestial models come with a more minimalistic, index-free dials. The Bovarro Orbit models come with larger luminescent hour dots at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions, whereas the Bovarro Celestial model's hour markers have been omitted to make it look more minimal. The brothers chose to use the ETA 2824-2 movement because it is a good time-keeping machine with good accuracy, reliability, and durability, and used by many Swiss watch brands. Every Bovarro watch will come in a high-gloss piano finish black wooden box with a model moon to celebrate the 1969 lunar landing, as well as a warranty card that covers the watches for 2 years against manufacturer defects.

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Emmanuel Bouchet Complication One New Watches For 2017

A sort of overriding goal of the Opus project (at least, historically) was to support interesting independent watchmakers and help promote them in a way a brand like Harry Winston could - and that they could not do themselves. A few years later, the Mr. Bouchet launched his eponymous brand, and it remains one of the few real high-end treats in the world of independent watchmaking. This is what a $100,000 watch should be like.
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While the 44mm-wide and 11.2mm-thick case (offered in a range of metal from titanium to gold and platinum) is round on a superficial level, it has an architecture unlike what you'll see in other watches. The design isn't just graceful, but it doesn't remind me of anything else out there. It is actually (surprisingly) an excellent example of what good modern minimalist design is. Not boring, but limited in details, the value of the design is expressed in just a few major lines versus a series of smaller details. It might not be a look for everyone, but in my opinion, it will be a celebrated design in the future in how it adds a surprisingly fresh appearance in a very crowded and familiar market.

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