Wednesday, November 30, 2016

New Victorinox Swiss Army INOX Watches For 2016 With Three Versions

Victorinox Swiss Army was finally able to add a red version with the Victorinox Swiss Army INOX Red. The brand's signature color was oddly missing when the Victorinox Swiss Army INOX debuted for sale in 2014. When asked, Victorinox Swiss Army admitted that the red color was simply not ready when the collection launched last year because the dial they where producing in red did not pass all of the INOX's stress tests.

A promotional event last year in New York was designed to show off some of these tests and included watches being boiled, tumbled in a washing machine, frozen, and more. I've asked the company to tell me more about these 130 tests, and they explained that at least some of them are trade secrets that they do not wish reveal. That is understandable, but they did offer this list of 26 of them, which illustrates what the INOX collection needed to endure during the development process.

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Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé Watch 5 With A Special Watch Dial Background

Using a magnifier to help read the date is a decent way to go, but I have found myself liking the trend of "big date" displays, generally relying on two discs to compose the date displayed. There are more than a few models that offer this, but one of the more intriguing – in terms of looks and design – was just recently announced: the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé. At first glance, you might be tempted to think of this as "just another" skeletonized watch – and one that, perhaps, is not as artfully done as others.   

They are sized well to each other, and I really like how the minute hand stretches to the the outer edge of the dial. I do wish, however, that the hour hand was a bit longer, allowing it to reach the hour markers. This design choice is even more surprising once you consider that both the sub-seconds and power reserve hands also reach to their respective marks without a gap. Nevertheless, it is true that – at times, especially on dials with shorter indices and/or with hands that are of the same shape – the hour hand is purposefully designed not to reach the inner end of the index, so as to make the two hands easier to distinguish.

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Bremont ALT1-ZT Watch, Cool Black Design

The ZT is an update to the original ALT1-Z, an aviation inspired chronograph that was part of Bremont's original line up back in 2007. While the Bremont ALT1-ZT doesn't outright replace the Z, it does offer an entirely different spin that reflects Bremont's current design language and packs a really pleasing wrist presence. The original ALT1-Z line up has seen many different dial colors, but all have stemmed from a military look crossed with elements of an aviation gauge cluster. 

Perhaps it is the more muted style or the subtle similarities to one of my favorite chronographs, the Jaeger-LeCoutlre Deep Sea Chrono. Regardless, it was not an easy one to put down. Aside from the design, the Bremont ALT1-ZT offers the same multi-role functionality of the ALT1-Z. You get a 12-hour chronograph, independent GMT hand with Roto-Click adjustable 24-hour bezel and a date at three, all managed by Bremont's BE-54AE, which is their expression of an ETA 7750 with a GMT module. This platform offers a huge amount of functionality and, with the adjustable 24-hour bezel, you can even track a third timezone if the need should arise.

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Tuesday, November 22, 2016

De Bethune DB25QP Perpetual Calendar Watch

The Gumball 3000, as it is known, began life on British shores, but is now a truly global event, with the course changing each year to keep things interesting. The rally, which has not avoided controversy since its foundation in 1999, is popular with celebrities and wealthy civilians, all of whom drive the car of their choice on the public road course in pursuit of glory and/or the trip of a lifetime. The Armin Strom Manual Gumball 3000, Double Barrel Gumball 3000, and the Armin Strom Tourbillon Gumball 3000 are interesting additions to a range that has, in the past, focused on clean lines and conservative colorways.

This calibre is visible through the display case back and has a definite look of the Old West about it. I can't quite put my finger on it, but something about the almost wood-like graining and the style of the engraved script screams Saloon Bar to me (which I absolutely love). The balance bridge is a finely crafted curve that plays a respective second fiddle to the screw balance wheel. The balance itself, which is, as many of Armin Strom's components are, refreshingly chunky and easy to observe. Making a centrepiece of the actual mechanics is a great way to make a watch seem active.

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Panzera Flieger F47-02D Wulf Watch, Whole Black Classic Design

According to De Bethune, this is the fifth color variation in this popular watch family which, for me, sums up many of the strengths of the brand. In short, if you want the technical and aesthetic appeal of a De Bethune on your wrist but prefer some of their more "spacey" modern sci-fi-inspired pieces, something like the DB25 case is an excellent option. This De Bethune DB25QP Perpetual Calendar, in my opinion, is a fantastic picture of both classic and modern elements - if you couldn't tell, I just love it. More Replica watches from http://www.watchcopyline.is/
The movement inside of the DB16 is the in-house made caliber DB2509 (click here for cool schematic) and the movement inside of De Bethune DB25QP Perpetual Calendar is the De Bethune caliber DB2324 (click here for schematic). The movements share much of the same calendar module but otherwise are very different. The more complicated DB2509 in the DB16 is made of 499 parts and is a manually-wound 5Hz (36,000 bph) frequency 30-second tourbillon with a silicon and white gold balance wheel, and tourbillon cage in titanium with silicon. It has a power reserve of four days and includes a power reserve indicator on the "Star Trek-inspired" movement back.

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Tuesday, November 15, 2016

Patek Philippe 3582, A Model Similar To Apple Watch

Despite Patek Philippe's highly conservative modern persona, for much of the brand's

history, it was incredibly prolific when it came to design experimentation and testing new

concepts. Not all of Patek Philippe's historic designs are what we could call "classics,"

but I think most collectors deeply appreciate just how diverse the brand's personality once

was.

It is a bit of a shame that I don't have the Apple Watch with the Milanese bracelet to put

right next to the Patek Philippe 3582, but of course that model is the closest analog and

the source of what I feel is the most amusing irony. Instead, I submit to you the Apple

Watch with the steel "Link Bracelet" along side this shining example of the Patek Philippe

Ellipse 3582G in 18k white gold with an attached mesh metal 18k white gold bracelet. The

parallel design at work here speaks volumes about how watches are conceived and minds in

totally separate places, in totally different times, doing totally different things, can

sometimes come up with similar outcomes.

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Wednesday, November 9, 2016

Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC013 Limited Edition Watch

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC013 is the first Grand Seiko watch to

incorporate ceramic into the case construction. The bezel of the watch is in "deep black"

ceramic which, of course, is a material that is much more scratch resistant than steel.
The rest of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC013 case is in titanium, and

at its core, this is one of the brand's older, yet more interesting sport watch models that

Seiko developed in order to display the versatility of their Spring Drive movement

collection.

That is better than most quartz movements. The movement has a lot of great functions that

include the time with subsidiary seconds, date, power reserve indicator, GMT hand, and 12-

hour chronograph. The layout of the dial information is unique, and while it is not

symmetrical, Seiko claims that it was designed to improve legibility - especially of the

chronograph. A further characteristic of these Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT

watches is the large size of the chronograph pushers. They might look a bit too large and

funky, but the chronograph is a pleasure to use.

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