New Roger Dubuis Excalibur Skeleton Watches

While Roger Dubuis has become well-regarded in recent years as a pioneer in skeletonized watch movements — its approach is to design them in an openworked style from the ground up, rather than the typical method of skeletonizing an existing movement — the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic Skeleton represents a first for the brand in this area,http://www.owatcheso.co/replica-iwc as its first automatic skeleton movement with a micro-rotor.

From a technical standpoint, skeletonizing a micro-rotor would seem counter-intuitive, since the use of such a rotor serves the same purpose as skeletonized movement parts, i.e., weight reduction. However, Roger Dubuis embraced the paradox, going so far as to use skeletonization on the micro-rotor itself.

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The movement also incorporated the off-centered “star” motif of other Roger Dubuis skeleton movements and carries a power reserve of 60 hours. The 42-mm rose gold case is water-resistant to 30 meters and is secured (via the triple lugs  typical of the Excalibur collection) to a brown alligator strap with rose-gold folding clasp.

Private Label montres de plongée

Un des plus célèbres exemples de l'étiquetage privé début nous vient de la marque horlogère Jenny, en particulier le modèle des Caraïbes (réf. 701, ci-dessus), avec son caractère distinctif cas monocoque,http://www.watchesgoing.co/ lancé entre 1963 et 1964 comme l'un des premiers 1000 mètres les montres de plongée.

Et en parlant de Jaquet Droz, l'ancienne coopérative (maintenant une marque de luxe sous le Swatch Group) était un fournisseur essentiel des modèles de base à cette époque pour l'ensemble de l'industrie: par exemple, en 1966, une écrasante 9.000 de ses différents modèles ont été proposés à le salon horloger de Bâle, certains d'entre eux montres de plongée qui est devenu bien connu sous différents noms de marque au fil des ans.

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Ainsi, alors que je préfère personnellement les montres de plongée qui sont exclusifs à une marque, l'idée de l'étiquetage privé - même si cela signifie souvent une montre fabriquée en Chine ces jours plutôt que dans la Suisse (qui, ironiquement, a été une fois elle-même choisie par les goûts de fondateur de la CBI Florentine Ariosto Jones pour ses prestations de production à faible coût) - est au moins aussi vieux que le premier 1000 mètres montre de plongée.

Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech

The new Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 (Ref. PAM00616) are made of carbotech, a composite material based on carbon fiber, used here for the very first time in watchmaking. The material has an uneven, matte black appearance with (to my eyes) an almost wood-grain-like texture, which varies according the cutting of the material.

The carbon fibers used are very long, to ensure aesthetic uniformity, and the sheets are superimposed and pressed together in such a way that the fibers of each layer are set at a different angle to the ones above and below it. The resulting material boasts mechanical properties much higher than those of similar materials used in watchmaking, such as ceramics and titanium. Carbotech, according to Panerai, is lighter than both and more resistant to corrosion as well as being hypoallergenic.

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The black dial of the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech has applied hour markers, a date window at 3 o’clock, and a small-seconds subdial, marked by detailing in “Panerai blue,” at 9 o’clock. The screw-down caseback, which helps to ensure the watch’s high level of water-resistance, is in black-treated titanium and engraved with characteristic Panerai elements, including an illustration of the slow-speed torpedo (nicknamed the “pig”) on which Panerai watch-equipped Italian Navy commandos rode during their seagoing missions in the 1940s.

The Arnold & Son Instrument Collection

The Golden Wheel combines the first-ever wandering hours function with the true beat seconds complication. Once again, Arnold & Son provides a highly complicated display with a legible and elegant visual interpretation. The manufacture movement was three years in the making from concept to development.

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The wandering hours function, also known as a jumping digital hours indication, occupies the top arc of the watch dial (from 10 o’clock to 2 o’clock). It is composed of 3 sapphire discs that rotate first on a central axis and then on their own axes. The hour numeral is used as a pointer for the minutes when running on the top arc. At the top, Arnold & Son fills the time-carousel of the Golden Wheel with a true beat seconds hand from the central axis – adding visual complexity and elegant motion.

The central time- carousel is crafted in solid 18-carat red gold – giving its name to the watch. The top arc on which the hours are running is made of mother of pearl. Beneath the technical elements sit the main plate of the movement, a grey coated dial finished with straight Geneva stripes.

Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Ceramica

The flyback function offered by the P.9100 caliber instantly zeroes the chronograph hands and restarts them with the push of a single button. This chronograph is unusual in that it uses only two hands, both centrally mounted. The blued hand counts the chronograph seconds, and the rhodium-plated hand tallies the chronograph minutes.

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To maintain the integrity of Panerai’s trademark lever-based crown protection device, the chronograph pushers are located on the 9 o’clock side of the case. The button at 10 o’clock starts and stops the chronograph, and the button at 8 o’clock handles the flyback and reset operations.

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication

Cartier’s headliner at SIHH 2015 was a new ultra-thin grand complication that showcases the brand’s technical watchmaking prowess.http://www.romegalex.com/ The Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication has an automatic movement measuring just 5.49 mm in height. Its three major complications are visible on the skeletonized dial: a flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar, and minute repeater.

The case, 45 mm wide, is made of platinum. The total thickness is a spare 12.6 mm. The crown, with its beaded ring for improved grip, is also in platinum, and has the characteristic Cartier sapphire cabochon. The watch has a sapphire crystal caseback as well.

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The watch features Cartier’s 9406 MC caliber. This self-winding movement is 39.3 mm in diameter. It has a 3-Hz frequency and runs in 47 jewels. In total, the movement has 578 components. Its power reserve is 50 hours. The movement is wound by an off-center micro-rotor, which can be seen turning through the skeletonized dial. 

Omega Speedmaster Co-Axial Caliber 9300 Watch

Although I am a collector of the Speedmaster Professional models that are considered to be classical “Moonwatches,” this new interpretation, with an in-house-developed, co-axial chronograph movement, is a great all-around watch for everyday use. At first, I had to get used to the two subdials instead of the earlier model’s three, but after a few days I found myself feeling quite comfortable reading the elapsed chronograph hours and minutes from one subdial.

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Omega Caliber 9300, with its co-axial escapement and use of silicon parts, is quite impressive for an industrial-produced movement. The domed sapphire crystals on the front and back make this an easy watch to wear; it doesn’t feel as bulky as its specifications make it appear. The classic design of the case is clearly based on that of the original Moonwatch, and the dial is very clean and readable.

Aegir Instruments Watch

To someone who’s not all that interested in dive watches, many of them may look alike. But if you are into collecting dive watches, you’re always looking for another one to buy. In doing so, you have several options: you can go vintage, stick with the classics from established brands, or maybe even consider some of the many alternatives out there from start-up, re-launched, and boutique dive watch brands.


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For those interested in the third option, we at DiveIntoWatches.com have put together a list of dive watches from lesser known brands (in alphabetical order) that we feel are worth checking out, covering a wide range of prices and specs.

In 2007, Australian diver Todd Caldwell started to bring his vision of the perfect dive watch to life. The result is 42-mm in case diameter, water-resistant to 701 meters, and can be ordered with a rotating (CD-2) or fixed bezel (CD-1). 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin 1907

In Europe and the rest of the world, these watches were signed “Jaeger-LeCoultre.” The movements used in both the LeCoultre- and the Jaeger-LeCoultre-signed watches are identical.http://www.rep8.co/ It wasn’t until 1985 that the name “Jaeger-LeCoultre” was adopted uniformly around the world. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Jubilee was the thinnest wrist watch in the world at the time of introduction. It has since been surpassed by Piaget’s Altiplano 38mm 900P.

The dial is white, with a finely grained surface, and features printed minute dots, and stick hour markers, with double stick markers at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. The choice to go for printed markers is simple: applied markers would need additional height (the hands may not touch the markers) and that would be counter to the whole point of this watch. The hands are so-called dauphine hands and, as is typical for JLC, one side of each hand is sandblasted (or micro-blasted, hence not shiny) while the other half is polished.

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