Friday, January 30, 2015

Vacheron Constantin Harmony Dual Time Cal 2460DT

Vacheron Consantin Harmony Dual Time duo - Perpetuelle

Having taken you through the ultra-exclusive flagship pieces in Vacheron Constantin’s new Harmony collection, there are a couple additional pieces I wanted to run through.  http://www.bienmontre.com/iwc-montres-replique-46 The Harmony Dual Time, with new Caliber 2460DT, is one of them.  Vacheron Constantin has put forth three references of the new dual time watch:  two for men (Dual Time Ref 7810S/000G-B050 (white gold) and 7810S/000R-B051(pink gold)), and one for women (Dual Time Ref 7805S/000G-B052.  Let’s take a closer look.

While I like the feature set — hours, minutes, seconds, dual time (4 o’clock) and day/night (8 o’clock), all operated through a single crown — I must say that, for me, the asymmetry of the dial (specifically, the two differently sized subdials) is a bit awkward.

The Vacheron Constantin Caliber 2460DT is beautifully done.  It carries the Geneva Seal as a testament to the quality of the watch, and it even has a stop seconds feature for precise time-setting.  The 40-hour power reserve is a bit modest, however.


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On the occasion of the manufacture’s 260th anniversary, the pieces feature an oscillating weight adorned with a commemorative motif forming delicate scrolling patterns. This “fleurisanne engraving”, as I have discussed, is inspired by the arabesques adorning the balance-cock of the oldest pocket watch by the Maison, signed by Jean-Marc Vacheron in 1755.

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Explained by A. Lange & Söhne

Redesigne Lange 1 with new caliber - Perpetuelle

The last bit of news coming out of SIHH 2015 that I wanted to cover regarding A. Lange & Söhne is the new Lange 1.  Having been the brand’s face since its presentation in 1994, the Lange 1 has now received an update that reflects the horological experience accrued during a period of more than 20 years.  Aside from the brand new caliber L121.1 (the 50th caliber in Lange’s portfolio of in-house movements), the remaining changes are subtle.

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Largely unchanged as regards its iconic design, the second generation is endowed with a slightly narrower bezel and a new manually wound calibre.  Another upgrade is the instantaneous jumping outsize date which advances precisely at midnight.

Thursday, January 22, 2015

Michael Bastian + HP smartwatch



Fashion designer Michael Bastian has partnered with electronics manufacturer Hewlett-Packard to produce a new high-quality smart watch.http://www.montrebox.com/hublot-montre-31.html It will be available exclusively at Gilt.com when it is launched in the Fall.

According to Gilt, “…it features a 44mm stainless steel case with a multi-layered finish, inlaid button controls and three interchangeable watchbands, including sleek black rubber, perforated brown leatherand olive green nylon – providing unique looks to customize the watch for a range of occasions and personal styles.”

Crucially, it is compatible with both Android and iOS devices and syncs with an app that allows users to interact with the watch interface.

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Features include: time, date, weather, stock and sports updates; remote control of the music on you device; calendar and appointment reminders; email and social media notifications; read text messages; battery status updates; automatic time zone adjustment; power reserve of up to 7 days.

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Thursday, January 15, 2015

Arnold & Son Golden Wheel



Arnold & Son released a preview today of the Golden Wheel, the first watch to combine wandering hours and true beat seconds. It is powered by a manufacture movement (caliber A&S6018), which took three years to make from concept to development.

The wondering hours complication is indicated via three clear sapphire discs that rotate on a carrousel that displays both hours and minutes. Arabic numerals hours are printed on the discs, with the minutes indicated by the small arrow that is also printed above the numeral. The disc points to the semi-circle scale at the top of the dial that reads 0-60 (highlighted by the semi-circle mother of pearl plate underneath the scale), this indicates the current hour and minute.

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Dead beat, or “true beat” seconds, are indicated by the long, gold, arrow-shaped hand that circles the dial (it does not move smoothly like a typical mechanical watch, instead it ticks, like a quartz). 


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Longines Conquest Classic Moonphase



This year at Baselworld 2015, which starts March 19th, Longines will introduce a new moonphase chronograph within their sporty Conquest line.

The steel model comes with a black dial, and the steel/rose gold and rose gold models come with a silvered dial. The hours are marked by 9 applied, luminous, indices. The baton-shaped hour and minute hands also feature lume. The black dial hands and indices are rhodium-plated and polished, and the rose gold models feature polished rose gold hands and indices.

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The watch is powered by caliber L678 which is a Valjoux 7751. It runs at 4Hz, has a 48-hour power reserve and features chronograph, date, moonphase and a 24 hour indication. The 12-hour counter is at 6 o’clock, the 24-hour indicator and the subdial for the seconds at 9 o’clock, as well as the 30-minute counter and the day-and-month display at 12 o’clock. The date is indicated by a half-moon central hand.

There is an option for a steel bracelet or alligator strap. Sapphire crystal with multi-layer anti-reflective treatment. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistance is 50 meters. Case, pushers and embossed crown are fully polished. Bracelet is polished with brushed center links. 


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Tuesday, January 6, 2015

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph

44mm x 16.6mm platinum case, blue dial, open worked at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock, manual wind AP caliber 2912 integrated column wheel chronograph with tourbillon (double barrel / 237 hour power reserve) blue rubber strap with 950 platinum AP folding clasp.

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Richard Mille RM 61-01

Richard Mille RM 61-01 Yohan Blake ("The Beast 2")

The RM 61-01 Yohan Blake takes all of its cues from the RM 59-01 tourbillon launched last year for the Olympic medalist and 2nd fastest man over 100m and 200m…who be named Yohan “The Beast” Blake (by the way, live Olympic shots here &  here).  

Anywhoo…most prominent on this watch are the green flying bridges — however, there are only 2 of them woven into the front of the movement, as opposed to 4 both front and back on the original RM59-01. http://www.watcheshe.net/breitling-watches-replica-c-28.html The bridges are anodized and painted by hand, bringing to mind the colors of Blake’s Jamaican homeland and of course a visual metaphor of his nickname.   The case is definitely not as intriguing as the translucent composite aka algae green case of last year, but it works (more on that below).

With all the play going on in the dial, you might not be admiring the bezel and the back of the RM 61-01, but you should know that they are created from “TZP-N”. This is an ultra-tough black ceramic material with a low density (i.e. it’s light and hard).  Composed of 95% Zirconium compound stabilized with Yttrium, TZP-N provides a perfect finish with blasted and yes even a bit of hand-polished anglage (the angles on the edge of the bezel); the caseband is made of the also light and highly resilient NTPT carbon. “Its drawn-out shape between 2 and 5 o’clock stops the crown from rubbing against the sprinter handle,” Mille notes.

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The skeletonised RMUL2 movement with 55 hours power reserve is built in grade 5 titanium treated with PVD and Titalyt using a free sprung balance beating at 4Hz.

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